In their original form, the equations are very simple and only use two variables. To make the equations easier to use in the shop, I have rearranged the equations in two different forms. These are all the same equations, but they are just mathematically manipulated to help you out. Which equation best suits your needs will depend on how fluent you are in mathematics, and what variables are known when you start. (I have also compiled a quick reference page to keep in your shop. This is just a duplication of the graphic images shown below.)
Getting Started
As I stated, there are only two variables needed to use these
equations. The first variable deals with the angle of the room,
picture frame, roof, or how many sides a box has. I have setup my
equations in such a way that it doesn't matter whether you are making
an inside corner or an outside corner. This is where many woodworkers
make mistakes because we are not accustomed to working with numbers
greater than 90°. For example, if you were placing crown
moulding around the top of a square column, other equations would
require you to use the "true" angle of 270°, and if you didn't,
the results would be abnormal miter settings. The equations I derived
use the angles the way a woodworker sees them, not a mathematician.
FlatMiter
I will call this first variable the FlatMiter. This variable
is the angle which you would normally set your saw to, in order to
miter a piece of flat moulding. In other words, if you were putting
crown moulding up around a square room, the FlatMiter would be
45°. The table to the right shows the FlatMiter values
based on how many sides a room or box has.
If your application doesn't fit into the category of being able to count the number of sides a box has, you can simply calculate the FlatMiter variable. Let's say you measured the corner of a box and found it to be 94° instead of the normal 90°. Then your FlatMiter variable would be 47°, which is ½ of 94 °.
Remember, with the exception of a triangular frame or the example above, your FlatMiter variable should always be less than 45°.
Slope
The second variable deals with the slope of the moulding
or the pitch of a roof. Most crown mouldings do not rest against the
wall at 45°. As a matter of fact, there is no set slope for
crown mouldings. While a 38/52 moulding may be common, it is not
exclusive. The slope of the moulding is dependent on the manufacturer
and their machine settings.
While you may know the slope when dealing with a doll house roof, chances are, you won't know the slope of a specific crown moulding. Because of this I have rearranged the equations so that you can use Drop-Projection-Width, or just the slope. (Important Note: Notice that when measuring these variables, they are measured with respect to the flat side on the back of the moulding. This is because the flat side is the surface you place against the saw's table when you cut it. If you measure from the face of the moulding, the slope of the moulding will be wrong.) Since the Drop-Projection-Width equation is probably the most useful, I will start with that one.
Drop-Projection-Width
If you feel more comfortable holding a tape measure than you do
with a calculator, then this method is the best. Using a framing
square, measure the Drop, Projection and Width as shown in the above
drawing. Then apply this into the following Equations:
Slope
If you are familiar with geometry, you may recognize the
"Drop/Width" as the Sine of an angle, and the "Projection/Width" as
the Cosine of an angle. Just by replacing this information into the
above equations, we end up with the following:
As I said earlier, these equations can be used for more than just mouldings. I have used them for many different applications when I needed a compound angle. The key to this is to visuallize what your setup would be like if it was a simple moulding. In otherwords, picture your application as though it was a moulding placed in the corner of a room up at the ceiling.
